Winterization Frequently Asked Questions

No. NEVER start or run your outboard without water circulating through the cooling water intake in the gear case. Cooling water prevents damage to the water pump (running dry) and overheating of the engine.

The Owners and Operations Manual outlines the typical maintenance and lubrication items. If your manual is missing or damaged, please contact your local dealer or visit the "Operation & Maintenance Manual" Download Center Category if you need to find/print a replacement manual.

The major consideration in preparing your outboard for storage is to protect it from rust, corrosion, and damage caused by freezing water that may be trapped in the engine. We recommend taking your engine to an authorized Mercury or Mariner dealer toperform the work. Damage from improper storage procedures is not covered under the Mercury Marine limited warranty policy. If you chose to perform the storage procedure, follow the storage procedures outlined in your Operations, Maintenance & Warranty Manual.

Storage Seal Rust Inhibitor is a blend of corrosion inhibiting additives designed to coat engine components during engine storage to reduce the formation of surface rust. Use Storage Seal Rust Inhibitor as directed in your owners and operators manual, following the directions on the container. Consult your owner's manual for your specific engine. Use of storage seal is not recommended for all engines.

Storage Seal Rust Inhibitor uses a thick base designed to protect the internal engine surfaces. In some applications we have seen a build up of the thick base inside the injectors, causing the injectors to stick or operate incorrectly. On these models we recommend Quickleen and 2-cycle engine oil as a replacement for Storage Seal Rust Inhibitor. Quickleen is used to clean the injectors. The engine oil lubricates, as well as prevents rust from forming. We continue to recommend Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer to help prevent the formation of varnish and/or gum in the gasoline. Always follow the storage procedures outlined in your Operation, Maintenance & Warranty Manual or Service Manual.

Inspect gear lubricant for metal particles (lubricant will have a 'metal flake' appearance). Drain lube into a clean pan/container. The presence of fine metal particles (resembling powder) in the gear lube indicates normal wear. The presence of metal chips in the gear lube indicates the need for gear housing disassembly and component inspection by an authorized dealer. Note color of gear lubricant when draining. If the color is white or cream it MAY indicate the presence of water in lubricant. Gear lubricant which has been drained from a gear case recently in operation will have a yellowish color due to lubricant agitation/aeration. Gear lube which is mixed with assembly lubricant (Special Lube 101 or 2-4-C w/Teflon) will also be creamy white in color. This is normal and should not be confused with the presence of water. If water is suspected to be present in the gearcase, a pressure check of the gearcase should be completed by an authorized dealer. Pouring a portion of the gear lubricant into a glass jar and allowing the lubricant to settle will allow any water in the lube to separate and settle to the bottom of the jar. Presence of water in gear lubricant indicates the need for inspection by an authorized dealer. The dealer will disassemble the gear housing and inspect the oil seals, seal surfaces, O-rings, water pump gaskets, as well as the gear housing components for damage.

We do not recommend leaving a lower unit or sterndrive empty during storage periods. An empty oil cavity may allow moisture to collect on the gears, bearings and shafts. Rust will form when the moisture reacts with the air, damaging the internal components. Note: If water was present when draining the gear oil, the lower unit or sterndrive should be inspected by an authorized dealer.

Your outboard has control anodes at different locations. An anode helps protect the outboard against galvanic corrosion by sacrificing its metal to be slowly eroded away, instead of the outboard metals. Each anode requires periodic inspection especially in saltwater applications, which will accelerate the erosion. To maintain this corrosion protection, always replace the anode before it is completely eroded. Never paint or apply a protective coating on the anode, as this will reduce its effectiveness.

We recommend a liberal coat of one of the following Mercury Precision or Quicksilver Marine Lubricants on the propeller shaft: Special Lubricant 101, 2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon, or Anti-Corrosion Grease. These lubricants are available from any authorized Mercury Marine dealer. Note: Always use the correct mounting hardware and torque the propeller nut to the correct specifications. Verify the propeller tightness after 20 hours of operation. DO NOT operate the boat with a loose propeller.

We strongly recommend that you have an authorized dealer inspect the vessel before returning it into service. The potential damage will vary from model to model. Although we try to design in protection for each component, limitations do exist. The first item to check is the fuse or fuseable link. Most models have some type of protection in the circuits. You can replace the fuse with the correct size and test the system. If the fuse fails again, dealer involvement is recommended. Other items on the engine that may be damaged include, but are not limited to the following: voltage regulators, rectifiers, tachometers, Electronic Control Module, isolation diodes and melted wiring. Boat related items may include the following: radios, radar, lights, wiring, etc.

Shrink wrap is a very effective method of protecting the boat during periods of storage; however, it is very important to ventilate the hull. Even in the driest conditions, without ventilation, the plastic cover will trap moisture. This moisture can create rust on some metal components, corrosion on others and mold/mildew on the carpet and upholstery. Always follow the manufacture's recommendations for ventilation.


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